After many years, my mother and I embarked on a journey to Pune together. It had been over six years since our last trip, and we were both looking forward to this much-needed getaway. Our adventure began in Panvel, where we arrived at the bus stop around 8:30 AM and boarded a red bus bound for Swargate. Due to the closure of the new Mumbai-Pune highway for elections, all traffic was diverted to the old highway, making our journey slow and bumpy. However, the old route rekindled fond memories, as I hadn’t traveled that way in over a decade. The staggered ascent of the bus and the pristine beauty of the Khandala Ghats were reminiscent of a safari through a jungle, complete with a variety of animals and birds. By 12 PM, we had reached our destination on a hot and humid afternoon, feeling famished.
In search of a local eatery, my mother had inquired and discovered Surve’s, a restaurant situated on Fergusson College Road next to the Punjab National Bank in Deccan. Opting for a rickshaw from Swargate to Deccan, we were charged an exorbitant Rs 160 by the driver who, recognizing us as non-locals, refused to use the meter despite my mother’s request.
Surve’s Pure Non-Veg
At Surve’s Pure Non-Veg, we settled by a window-side table, taking in the modern interiors adorned with a white and blue color scheme and electric lanterns that reflected Maharashtrian design. The street view complemented the restaurant’s ambiance, creating a splendid setting.
Our server welcomed us with courtesy, promptly offering water. To begin, we ordered Surmai fry, also known as Mackerel or Seer fish, and placed our main course orders for two Special Chicken Thalis alongside the appetizers to expedite our meal. Considering my mother’s low sodium diet, we requested less salt in our dishes, to which the server graciously agreed, even suggesting a substitution of bread with rice, which my mother gladly accepted. We also looked forward to enjoying Sol Kadhi at the meal’s conclusion.
The Surmai fry arrived first, prepared in a traditional Maharashtrian style with a marinade of salt, chili powder, garlic paste, and lime, then coated with semolina and shallow-fried. To our delight, it was the best Surmai we had tasted outside of Mumbai, especially surprising given Pune’s distance from the sea. The fish was thinly sliced, allowing us to savor each flavor distinctly.
The main course, the Special Chicken Thali, was equally impressive. The Jowari Bhakari (millets flatbread) was notably larger than what we were accustomed to at home, while my mother’s plate featured only the locally grown Indrayani rice. The Chicken Kheema was exceptional, with its buttery smooth minced chicken and perfectly balanced spices. The Chicken Fry was tender and well-seasoned, and the Rassa, a red broth meant to be savored like a soup, provided a comforting warmth. Overall, the thali offered a delightful culinary experience.
The Sol Kadhi was a revelation, a refreshing blend of coconut milk, chopped chilies, coriander, salt, and kokum. The balance of ingredients was masterful, delivering the essence of fresh coconut without the need for excessive chewing.
Considering the quality and quantity of our meal, which included an appetizer, two thalis, and two exquisite Sol Kadhis, the price of Rs 1400 for both of us seemed quite reasonable. The service, ambience, and cuisine at Surve’s were exceptional, a testament to the dedication of the staff.
Kavre’s, Tulshibaug
Post-lunch, we ventured to Tulshibaug, near Laxmi Road, where my mother wished to shop and relive childhood memories, including a visit to Kavre’s for ice cream. This time, we smartly booked an Ola rickshaw, a convenient mode of transport in Pune. Upon reaching Tulshibaug for Rs 65, we were engulfed by a crowd that rivaled the density of a Mumbai local train. Despite the intense heat and humidity, we navigated through the throngs to Kavre’s, only to realize we had initially encountered a secondary branch. After a brief detour and a moment of reverence at the Tulshibaug Ganpati idol, we decided to return to the first Kavre’s we had seen.
Kavre’s, a long-standing establishment in Pune, held special memories for my mother, who had frequented it since her childhood and had brought me there as a baby. Although I had little recollection of those visits, I was eager to experience the place firsthand. Amidst the bustling atmosphere, the servers remained attentive and courteous. We indulged in Mango and Strawberry Milkshakes, made with real fruit—a rarity that set Kavre’s apart as a pioneer in fresh fruit juices and ice cream. The Mango Faludas, topped with freshly made mango ice cream, were a delightful treat that momentarily made us forget the sweltering conditions outside.
Our ice cream adventure cost us Rs 450, a small price for the respite it provided. We insisted on paying the full amount, despite being offered a discount, as a gesture of appreciation for Kavre’s exceptional service.
Tulshibaug, a bustling marketplace, offers an array of items from clothes and imitation jewelry to snacks and novelty products at bargain prices. For those seeking thrifty shopping options, it’s a treasure trove, though the crowds may be overwhelming for some.
Chitale Bandhu Mithaiwale
Our next stop was Chitale Bandhu Mithaiwale, a renowned name in Pune known for its traditional Maharashtrian snacks and sweets. We specifically sought their Bhakarwadi, a snack that Chitale had perfected with a Konkan twist. Armed with RF cards to track our purchases, we explored the variety of fruit and nut barfis before securing half a kilo of freshly made Bhakarwadi. This particular snack holds a special place in my heart, and I relish the opportunity to enjoy it with a cup of sweet Indian chai.
Having accomplished our goals in Pune, we visited my mother’s friend, whom she hadn’t seen in nearly 30 years. The visit was filled with warmth and generosity, as we were gifted local produce and snacks for our journey back to Panvel.
Our day trip to Pune was a delightful experience, enriched by the flavors and memories we encountered. As we returned home, we savored the snacks and looked forward to enjoying the Bhakarwadis with sweet tea, a fitting end to a memorable day.
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