Makeup in ancient India was not merely a superficial practice but a profound expression of religion, culture, and social status. Both men and women used various cosmetics, which were often imbued with spiritual and cultural significance. These products were sometimes reserved for special occasions, while others were used regularly to enhance the wearer’s luck, beauty, spirituality, and status.

Kajal: The Timeless Eyeliner

One of the most iconic makeup products in ancient India was kajal. Women would dip a clean muslin rag in a paste made of sandalwood, known for its medicinal properties. Once the rag was dry, they would burn it in a lamp of castor oil. The carbon remains were then mixed with castor oil or ghee (clarified butter) for easier application. This kajal was applied by people of all ages and genders, even to babies, as it was believed to strengthen and protect the eyes. To this day, Indian women use kajal to enhance their eyes, applying it to the waterline, eyelashes, and outer rims of their eyes.

Skin-Bleaching Cosmetics

In ancient times, Indians created skin-bleaching cosmetics by mixing costus root, sesame seeds, lebbeck leaves, pongamia pea plant leaves, cedar wood, and barberry wood. This mixture was roasted and crushed into a fine powder. Another brightening agent consisted of powdered lentils mixed with honey. These mixtures were applied regularly to achieve and maintain a fair complexion, which was associated with higher social status due to the caste system.

Henna: The Art of Marriage

Henna played a significant role in rites of passage, especially in marriage. The leaves of the henna plant were crushed to yield a thick paste that resulted in semi-permanent, reddish-brown stains. Skilled artists applied this paste to brides’ hands and feet, creating intricate patterns known as mehndi. Henna was also used to dye hair and fingernails and was associated with luck. Women wore mehndi on other special occasions and religious holidays as well.

The Chakra of Beauty: Bindi

The Bindi, a red dot between the eyebrows, is often misunderstood as being worn only by married women. However, this is not the case. The area between the eyebrows is known as the “third eye,” a chakra believed to be the center of a person’s spiritual power. The color red, associated with love and honor, was applied as a red ochre paste to the scalp where the hair is parted. While in modern times, a Bindi may be a simple fashion statement, in ancient times, it was a significant marker of beauty and spiritual vitality for both genders.

The use of makeup in ancient India was deeply intertwined with cultural, spiritual, and social practices. From the protective kajal to the auspicious mehndi and the spiritually significant Bindi, these cosmetics were far more than mere adornments. They were a reflection of the rich tapestry of Indian heritage, where beauty and spirituality were seamlessly woven together.